San Martín to Zumaia: 16 km We woke up in a cow barn, walked on a beach, and fell asleep in a convent. Which, when I think about it, sums up a lot of the Camino del Norte in a single sentence. There are a lot of ways that pilgrims decide how far they willContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 3: The First Beach and Convent”
Albergue Ulia to San Martín: 18 km After the delightful surprise of a sunny first day on the Camino del Norte, we woke on Day 2 to the sound of rain. This wasn’t much of a surprise; the Norte is notoriously wet – the price they pay for all of the dense green colors andContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 2: The Rain”
One of the best parts about planning this summer’s mini-Camino is that it gives me the chance to go back and walk the 40 kilometers of “missing link” in my last Camino, between Viana and Najera. There are lots of reasons why a Camino pilgrim might decide to skip ahead on the trail via bus,Continue reading ““No Problem!” On the Generosity of Camino Strangers (and a Wild Ride to Logroño)”
The first day of summer brought me a gift: the first head cold of summer. I’ve spent the past week on my couch, going through a full box of tissues, drinking gallons of green tea, and catching up on Season 3 of The Americans. I could do all of that, of course, because this summer I’mContinue reading “When You Get Sick on the Camino”
Eric and I spent our 14th wedding anniversary in the sleepy, almost eerily deserted town of Bercianos del Real Camino, deep in the heart of the Meseta.
Here’s another question people ask when they hear that we spent almost all of our 79 Camino nights in shared rooms, sometimes with as many as 50 other people. What do you do about the snoring? I could make a joke here about how most of us who are married are used to sleeping aContinue reading “Sleeping Through the Snoring”
At one point or another, every Camino alum starts making Top Five list. The Best Albergues. The Best Meals. The Best Days. I love reading these stories, because sometimes I recognize the places they describe…but more often I don’t. Pilgrims stop in different towns, or stay in different places, or the weather and the people justContinue reading “My 5 Favorite Albergues on the Camino Frances”
A photo tour of the gites, albergues, and beds of the Camino de Santiago