Camino del Norte, Day 8: The Shortcut

Larrebetzu to Pobena: 46 km Did we really walk 46 kilometers in a day? Of course not. This was the Day of The Shortcut. When Eric and I walked our first Camino, we were purists. The familiar mantra “Walk your own Camino” meant that it was meant to be walked, and I confess I feltContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 8: The Shortcut”

Camino del Norte, Days 6-7: Basque Country

Zenarruza to Guernica: 18 km; Guernica to Larrabetzu: 17 km If I’m ever going to finish the stories of Camino del Norte, I need to start combining days. And actually, when I think about the end of our first week, these two shorter-distance Camino walks had a lot in common. For thirty-five total kilometers, weContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Days 6-7: Basque Country”

Camino del Norte, Day 5: The Monastery

Bario Ibiri to Monasterio de Zenarruza: 27 km The final stretch of trail to Zenarruza was steep and paved in what’s called the “original road,” which may look pretty, but any Camino pilgrim will tell you is the absolute worst thing to walk on. Cobblestones are uneven, sinking over time into an ankle-breaking, knee-destroying obstacleContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 5: The Monastery”

Camino del Norte Day 4: The Mud

Zumaia to Bario Ibiri: 18km “I seem to be on a road, walking, greeting the hedgerows, the rose hips, the apples and thorn. I seem to be on a road walking, familiar with the neighbors, high-handed with cattle, smelling the sea, and alone.” Annie Dillard We woke to dry skies on Day 4, but theContinue reading “Camino del Norte Day 4: The Mud”

Camino del Norte, Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian

There are some days on the Camino de Santiago that, when you look back, seem to fill a week’s worth of experiences and stories. First days are often like this – the trail is new and every yellow arrow or red-and-white marking is exciting, every hilltop view or medieval town is a surprise. The firstContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian”