On the Monday after Easter three years ago, Eric and I arrived in Paris after an overnight flight. We took a train to Lyon, and then another one to Le Puy-en-Velay, one of the oldest starting points of the Way of Saint James, according to the twelfth-century guide for pilgrims—considered one of the earliest travel … More Le Puy-En-Velay
We were just ten kilometers from Puente La Reina, our stop for the night, but there was a side trip I was eager to take: The Church of Santa María of Eunate. … More A Detour to Eunate
The Camino isn’t just a walk across the countryside — it’s also a chance to see beautiful, spectacular, awe-inspiring art.But if you look carefully, not everything is majestic. … More The Unexpected Art of the Camino
Another one of those magical places that doesn’t make it into the guide books… … More The Figeac Alley (Almost Wordless Wednesday)
It was like your grandmother’s overcrowded knic-knack cabinet, where everything from the antique china to the snow globe she bought in Vegas is crammed onto a shelf and threatening to topple out at any minute. … More The Church of the Sensory Overload
Small and weathered, with tiles missing from the roof and patches of stone visible in the thick, unadorned walls, it didn’t look like anyone had visited, let alone worshiped here, for centuries. Yet of course it was unlocked. … More The Chapel in the Middle of Nowhere
One of the most famous stops of the Chemin du Puy, the Way of Saint James from Le Puy to Saint Jean Pied de Port, is in Conques. For many pilgrims, this is a high point of the trip. Our experience was not quite the same. Here’s an excerpt from the book-in-progress … More Conques, Theme Park of the Middle Ages
If you venture into the churches and cathedrals of the Camino, you’ll notice a lot of saints. One is dressed as a pilgrim, with a cloak and a floppy hat and often even the scallop shell of Saint James. But he’s not Saint James. You can tell because this particular saint is always standing a certain way. … More Saint Roch: The Burlesque Saint of Bad Knees and (Maybe) Pilgrims
The Devil, the wine, and the bridge: a Camino story about legends and surprises in France. … More The Wine, the Devil, and the Bridge: Camino Surprises
To understand the modern experience of what we now call the Camino de Santiago, it helps to start at the beginning and see where it came from and why it matters. After all, this was never meant to be a recreational hiking trail. I’m not much of an ancient historian, but here’s my understanding of … More The Origins of the Camino
