Pobeña to Castro Urdiales: 15 km Castro Urdiales to Liendo: 25 km “I’d forgotten this part of Camino life,” I wrote in my journal on the 9th day of walking. “When the magic becomes normal, the feeling that walking is the way that I live now. The steady pattern of walk-eat-sleep-repeat. Take care of your feet. … More Camino del Norte, Days 9-10: Cantabria
There are some days on the Camino de Santiago that, when you look back, seem to fill a week’s worth of experiences and stories. First days are often like this – the trail is new and every yellow arrow or red-and-white marking is exciting, every hilltop view or medieval town is a surprise. The first … More Camino del Norte, Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian
After 21 days (and 21 beds) of travel, I’m home from my third trip to the Camino de Santiago, this time along the Camino del Norte. I’m brutally jetlagged after the 10-hour flight from Paris, but wanted to share some initial impressions before I get lost in the madness of re-entry. (I also need a … More Camino del Norte: First Impressions
I saw another article this morning that referred to “the Camino de Santiago, a 500-mile walk that stretches from the French border to the city of Santiago de Compostela.” The mistake was made by a reputable travel site, so I considered writing a polite letter to the editor, pointing out their error. But if I … More Walking “the Whole” Camino
Three weeks from today, we’ll be on an airplane, flying (direct!) from Seattle to Paris. Which means that right about now, I’m on that teetering seesaw between over-planning for the Camino del Norte and promising not to over-plan. I’ve got all of the gear: I’ve spent hours stalking REI Garage bargains, buying all of the … More Camino del Norte: To Plan or Not to Plan, That Is the Question
Twelve kilometers after Pamplona, past the fields of grasses splashed with red poppies (or the fields of dry dirt, depending on the time of year), the crumbling monasteries, and the towering hay bales, and up a steep set of switchbacks, the Camino Frances arrives at Alto de Perdón, the Mount of Forgiveness. I’ve stood … More The Surprising Story Behind the Sculpture on Alto del Perdón
