Bario Ibiri to Monasterio de Zenarruza: 27 km The final stretch of trail to Zenarruza was steep and paved in what’s called the “original road,” which may look pretty, but any Camino pilgrim will tell you is the absolute worst thing to walk on. Cobblestones are uneven, sinking over time into an ankle-breaking, knee-destroying obstacleContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 5: The Monastery”
Tag Archives: Camino de Santiago
Camino del Norte Day 4: The Mud
Zumaia to Bario Ibiri: 18km “I seem to be on a road, walking, greeting the hedgerows, the rose hips, the apples and thorn. I seem to be on a road walking, familiar with the neighbors, high-handed with cattle, smelling the sea, and alone.” Annie Dillard We woke to dry skies on Day 4, but theContinue reading “Camino del Norte Day 4: The Mud”
Camino del Norte, Day 3: The First Beach and Convent
San Martín to Zumaia: 16 km We woke up in a cow barn, walked on a beach, and fell asleep in a convent. Which, when I think about it, sums up a lot of the Camino del Norte in a single sentence. There are a lot of ways that pilgrims decide how far they willContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 3: The First Beach and Convent”
Camino del Norte, Day 2: The Rain
Albergue Ulia to San Martín: 18 km After the delightful surprise of a sunny first day on the Camino del Norte, we woke on Day 2 to the sound of rain. This wasn’t much of a surprise; the Norte is notoriously wet – the price they pay for all of the dense green colors andContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 2: The Rain”
Camino del Norte, Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian
There are some days on the Camino de Santiago that, when you look back, seem to fill a week’s worth of experiences and stories. First days are often like this – the trail is new and every yellow arrow or red-and-white marking is exciting, every hilltop view or medieval town is a surprise. The firstContinue reading “Camino del Norte, Day 1: Irun to San Sebastian”
Notre Dame Cathedral and the First Camino Stamp
When we bought round-trip tickets to Paris as the launching point of our Camino del Norte trip, the rolling SNCF strike had not yet been announced. (Or if it had, I didn’t know about it.) I assumed that once we landed it would be an easy train ride from Paris to Irún, just as threeContinue reading “Notre Dame Cathedral and the First Camino Stamp”
Camino del Norte: First Impressions
After 21 days (and 21 beds) of travel, I’m home from my third trip to the Camino de Santiago, this time along the Camino del Norte. I’m brutally jetlagged after the 10-hour flight from Paris, but wanted to share some initial impressions before I get lost in the madness of re-entry. (I also need aContinue reading “Camino del Norte: First Impressions”
Why I Won’t Be Posting Updates From the Camino del Norte
For months now, I’ve been following the Facebook pages and Instagram feeds of pilgrims who are walking various portions of the Camino de Santiago. From them, I’ve gathered information about the weather, about where to stay, about what to expect. I’m grateful for them all. And yet, when I leave tomorrow morning, I won’t beContinue reading “Why I Won’t Be Posting Updates From the Camino del Norte”
Camino del Norte Packing List
I’m 36 hours from departure for the Camino del Norte, and so this afternoon I gathered all the things to see what I have. This is my third Camino, so certain things are familiar (same backpack, sleeping bag, pillow, towel, etc.) But once again, “what to wear” was a question that needed some thought. InContinue reading “Camino del Norte Packing List”
Walking “the Whole” Camino
I saw another article this morning that referred to “the Camino de Santiago, a 500-mile walk that stretches from the French border to the city of Santiago de Compostela.” The mistake was made by a reputable travel site, so I considered writing a polite letter to the editor, pointing out their error. But if IContinue reading “Walking “the Whole” Camino”
camino times two 